I AM SIRIUS - STEP BY STEP - PHOTO

I AM SIRIUS - STEP BY STEP - PHOTO

Follow our step by step guide to sewing I AM Sirius, your sweatshirt with a pleated back from the collection I AM A STAR. You will find the written explication first and then below we have added the picture to illustrate the step.

CUTTING THE FABRIC:

-1- Cut the fabric following the cutting plan.

-2- Make notches as shown on the pattern and also on fabric folds: center front on the collar and the front.

PREPARING THE BUTTONING PLACKET:

-3- Cut the excess of fabric on the left buttoning placket as shown on the pattern.

-4- Overlock the center back from the bottom to the corner of the buttoning.

-5- Iron the back buttoning placket:

On the left side, fold 3/8’’ then 3/4’’ toward the wrong side. Iron.

On the right side, fold 3/8’’ towards the wrong side. Iron.

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PREPARING THE PLEATS:

Make the pleats on the « pleated back » piece like an accordion.

-6- Start the first pleat at 1 3/16’ from the edge and pleat in accordion every 3/4’.

-7- The last pleat should lie on the first one. It’s also 1 3/16’.

-8- Overlock the sides and the top of the piece.

-9- Make a rolled edge hem at the bottom of the piece.




SEWING THE PLEATS AND THE BACK:

-10- Place the pleated piece and the left back right sides together.

-11- The pleated piece is 3/4’ up on the buttoning part, and stops at 2 inches above the bottom of the garment.

-12- Sew at 3/8’’. Make sure to start sewing at 3/8’’ from the top of the pleats and finish exactly on the rolled edge.

-13- Iron towards the center back. Open the pleats and place the right back right sides together with the pleated piece.

-14- Pin and sew the same way that the left back: the pleated piece is 3/4’ up on the buttoning part, and stops at 2 inches above the bottom of the garment. Sew at 3/8’’.

-15- Iron towards the center back.




ASSEMBLING THE CENTER BACK:

-16- Fold the pleats and the buttoning, and place the center backs right sides together.

-17- Sew the top of the pleats and the buttoning together at 3/8’’. Stop at the first stitch.

-18- On the right side, fold the left back so it’s above the pleats. Iron the left back buttoning.

-19- Topstitch for 3/4’’ at 3/4’’ above the pleats. This will maintain the buttoning plackets in place and hide the pleats.



SEWING THE BUST DART:

-20- Create the dart by folding the front, right side facing the right side, and match up the dart’s notches. Pin and trace one side of the dart.

-21- Sew from the side seam to the tip of the dart. Start with a backstitch and at the tip of the dart make sure to have 2’’ of thread hanging so you can secure the dart by hand with a tight double knot.

-22- Iron the dart downwards.

-23- Sew the second dart following the same instructions.


SEWING THE SHOULDERS:

-24- Place front and back of the bodice right sides together at the shoulders. Sew at 3/8’’ SA. Overlock and iron the seam towards the back.

SEWING THE COLLAR:

PREPARING THE COLLAR:

-25- Place the collar and the collar lining right sides together. Sew the sides and the top at 3/8’’. Make sure to start and stop at 3/8’’ from the edge.

-26- Turn the collar right side out and iron. Make sure the collar corners are turned out completely.



SEWING THE COLLAR:

-27- Place the collar and the neckline right sides together matching up the notches.

-28- Sew at 3/8’’ SA.

-29- Turn 3/8’’ SA of the lining inside the collar. Sew the lining to the collar with an invisible hand stitch.

SEWING THE SLEEVES:

-30- Overlock the bottom of the sleeves.

-31- Sew the sleeve darts following the same instructions than for the bust darts.

-32- Sew a gather stitch on the sleeve head, between the two notches.

-33- Place the sleeve underarm and the garment’s armhole right sides together matching up the notches. Pin in place.

-34- Gently pull the gather thread and spread the ease evenly. Pin in place.

-35- Sew at 3/8’’ SA and overlock.

SEWING THE SIDE SEAMS:

-36- Place the front and back right sides together, matching up the underarm seams. Pin in place. Sew at 3/8’’and overlock.

FINISHINGS:

-37- Fold the sleeve bottom at 3/4’’ on the wrong side. Topstich along the overlock.

-38- Fold the bottom of the garment 3/8’’ and 1 9/16’’ and iron. Topstitch the hem.

-39- On the buttoning placket, sew the invisible stud buttons.

Congratulations, you’ve finished your creation. Post it on social media with: @iam_patterns

#iampatterns #IAMSIRIUS #SIRIUS

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