I AM Bob is a classic trench coat. Timeless and elegant, Bob is the perfect trench to slip easily into your wardrobe. It has all the hallmarks of a trench, but its two collars, hidden button placket and 4 lengths give it a unique style.
I AM Bob is a great challenge for intermediate sewers who want to sew this classic. Our step-by-step instructions will guide you through the more complex steps of this pattern to understand how to sew the welt pockets, the hidden button placket and the slit. For each of these steps, you’ll find written instructions accompanied by several images.
I AM BOB
The classic that no wardrobe is complete without. Bob is the instantly-recognisable classic trench coat. With all the details you would expect from this quintessential staple, Bob features a storm flap, metal D-ring, welt pockets, and an optional belt with eyelets. Bob has 4 lengths to sew the perfect style to fit seamlessly with your other items, and two collar styles to create a bespoke yet recognisable trench to suit your every need.
Instructions
Here we present a study piece for sewing the pocket. Some steps have not been photographed, but will be described as per the instruction booklet.
FUSING THE INTERFACING
On the right side and wrong side of both front pieces, trace the rectangle marking the finished pocket placement. As we are tracing on the right side, if using a tailor’s chalk, test to ensure the chalk can be erased easily. Alternatively, mark the pocket placement using basting thread. On the wrong side, apply the welt pocket reinforcement interfacing piece around the finished pocket placement.
PREPARING THE POCKET FLAP
Using the notches at the top and the bottom of the piece, fold one pocket flap on itself, right sides together. Pin in place along the short ends and sew them at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Clip the corners if needed, turn right side out and press. Topstitch around the seam 3/16’’ (5 mm) from the edge.
SEWING THE BUTTONHOLE
Sew the buttonhole as indicated on the pattern and open it. There is now a right side (see the left photo) and a wrong side (see the right photo) for each pocket flap.
PREPARING THE POCKET BACKING
Place one pocket backing facing on one pocket backing right sides together. Place the bottom of the pocket backing facing towards the top of the pocket and match up the notches. Pin in place and sew from one notch to the other at 3/18’’ (1 cm) from the pocket backing facing edge. Press the pocket backing facing towards the top of the pocket.
SEWING THE POCKETS
CUTTING THE POCKET
Cut following the pocket placement line starting and stopping 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the beginning of the seams. Then, cut carefully at an angle until reaching the seam. Make sure to lift the seam allowances of the welt and pocket pieces so as not to cut them.
ASSEMBLING THE POCKET
ASSEMBLING THE POCKET
Push the pocket backing and the pocket facing through the opening to the wrong side. Only the pocket flap remains on the right side. Press well. Looking at the wrong side, align the pocket backing and the pocket facing and pin in place. Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Make sure to sew exactly on the end points of the opening (triangles) to avoid having holes on the front.
SEWING THE BUTTON
Fold the pocket flap towards the top of the pocket opening and press. Then, fold the pocket flap on itself in order to align it with the pocket opening and press. Mark the button position on the bottom layer of the flap, matching up the buttonhole and sew it. Only sew the button on the flap (not through the pocket backing nor the pocket facing).
FINISHING OFF
Reposition the pocket flap correctly and topstitch the short ends on top of the first topstitch to hold the flap in place.
Here we present a study piece for sewing the button placket. Some steps have not been photographed, but will be described as in the instruction booklet.
PREPARING THE CONCEALED BUTTON PLACKET
PREPARING THE CONCEALED BUTTON PLACKET
On the right-hand side front of the outer garment, fold the centre front edge 2” (5 cm) towards the wrong side and press all along the front. Unfold. Do not sew. Repeat for the right-hand side of the front facing.
SEWING THE FRONTS TOGETHER
Place the outer garment and the lining right sides together. Align their fronts. Sew each front at 3/8’’ (1 cm). For each, start at the seam attaching the lining to the front facing and finish at the top of the fronts (neckline). Do not sew the neckline yet. Press and turn the garment right side out. Using the fold lines marked earlier, form the concealed button placket by inserting the seam of the right- hand side front inside the garment. The part on the outer garment will be referred to as the concealing stand and the part on the facing as the button placket. Press thoroughly.
SEWING THE BUTTONHOLES
On the front facing button placket, sew 7/8’’ (2.2 cm) long vertical buttonholes. Important: do not sew the buttonholes on the outer garment concealing stand but only on the front facing button placket. The top of the first buttonhole sits 1 5/16’’ (3 cm) from the top of the neckline and 3/4’’ (2 cm) from the folded edge (on the centre front axis). Sew all other buttonholes on the centre front axis with a 4’’ (10 cm) spacing from the bottom of the upper buttonhole to the top of the lower buttonhole.
HOLDING THE BUTTON PLACKET IN PLACE
HOLDING THE BUTTON PLACKET IN PLACE
Still looking at the right side of the lining and front facing button plack- et, use the topstitching template to topstitch between each buttonhole
• Place the topstitching template on the front facing button placket and match up the buttonhole markings on the template with the buttonholes sewn previously.
• Between each buttonhole, mark the angle of the topstitching as indicated on the template (55°).
• Topstitch along the marking through all 3 layers (both layers of the button placket and the inside layer of the concealing stand).
• Backstitch at the beginning and at the end of each topstitch and make sure not to topstitch further than the fold marking the outer garment concealing stand.
BONUS : HOW TO PLACE THE COLLAR
The same principle applies to the classic collar. See the explanation booklet.
Here we present a study piece for sewing the back slit. Some steps have not been photographed, but will be described as in the explanation booklet.
ASSEMBLING THE BACK
ASSEMBLING THE BACK LINING
ASSEMBLING THE BACK LINING
Place both back lining pieces right sides together. Pin in place and sew along the centre back at 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the edge. Stop precisely at marking #1 (represented here by a blue thread) with the needle down and lift the presser foot.
Clip the angle of the left-hand side back lining (full slit) only, up to 1/16’’ (1 mm) from the seam. It “releases” the seam allowance and allows you to finish sewing the slit.
Place both slanted edges of the slit right sides together and finish stitching the top of the slit. Stop precisely at marking # 2.
Press the seam in order to shape the slit.
CLIP THE LINING SEAM
On the right-hand side back lining (cut out slit), carefully clip the seam allowance towards the seam until marking #2. This “releases” the seam allowance.
CLIP THE GARMENT SEAM
On the back of the outer garment, carefully clip the seam allowances of the top of the slit in the continuity of the seam until marking #3.
ASSEMBLING THE LINING AND THE GARMENT AT THE SLIT
Place the outer garment and the lining right sides together and align them on each side of the slit. Match up the seams of the top of the slit. Place the seam allowances of the top of the slit of the outer garment towards the garment in order for them to be out of the way when sewing. Repeat for the lining and pin in place. Pin in place along the slit. Sew at 3/8 (1 cm) in one go, making sure not to stitch through the seam allowances of the top of the slit of the lining and outer garment. Start at the bottom of one side of the slit and finish at the bottom of the other side of the slit.
Photos showing the wrong side of the lining:
Photos showing the wrong side of the garment :
FINISHING OFF
Press. Using the fold previously marked, on the right-hand side of the garment, fold the slit towards the wrong side.
You’ve finished!
The most complex part is behind you. Congratulations! Once you’ve finished, share your trench with us on Instagram with: @iam_patterns, #iampatterns et #iambob
