Rê is a classic duffle coat to see you through the colder months. Classic, iconic and a wardrobe staple, this coat will be a delight to sew and to wear. Rê features all the classic details of a Montgomery coat, and a choice of length options to suit your style.
Rê is the perfect sewing project to take your skills up to the next level, and our in-depth instructions will see you through every step of the way. For each part of the process, you will find written instructions and images to illustrate each technique.
I AM RÊ
Rê is your must-sew item for autumn and winter. A classic garment that will be by your side for years to come, the I AM Rê sewing pattern features toggle closures, a 3-piece hood, a shoulder yoke, large patch pockets with flaps and classic sleeves with tabs for tightening at the wrist. Rê can be made hip length or mid-thigh to fit seamlessly with the rest of your winter wardrobe.
Instructions
Before starting to sew, of course, you’ll need to cut your fabric as indicated on the instructions.
For the toggle pads, don’t forget to use material that doesn’t fray like boiled wool or leather.
If you have cut and applied iron-on interfacing as needed, then, open the next accordion to start sewing and find the pictures to help you.
Preparing the pockets
Finish the raw edge of the sides and rounded edge of the pockets.
Fold and press the top of one pocket 3/8’’ (1 cm) and again 1’’ (2.5 cm) towards the wrong side. Pin in place and topstitch to maintain the hem in place.
Use the cardboard template to press the remaining seam allowances of the pocket. Place the template on the wrong side of the pocket. Align it at the top and centre it widthwise. Press the 3/8’’ (1 cm) seam allowances of the sides and bottom edge towards the template. If needed, clip the corners to ensure a neat finish.
Place the wrong side of the pocket on the right side of one front. Align the pocket with the markings of the pocket placement. Pin in place and topstitch along the sides and the bottom of the pocket, 3/16’’ (5 mm) from the edge.
Sewing the pocket flaps
Fold two pocket flaps right sides together. Pin in place and sew both short ends and the rounded edge at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Clip the curves and, if needed, trim the seam allowances. Turn right side out and press. Topstitch at 3/16’’ (5 mm) along both the sides and the bottom of the flap (rounded edges
Place the flap and the garment right sides together. Place the raw edge of the flap 3/4’’ (2 cm) from the top of the pocket and centre it. Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm).
Trim 3/16’’ (5 mm) off the seam allowances. Press the flap downwards. Topstitch at 3/16’’ (5 mm) from the edge to hold it in place.
Preparing the back lining
Fold the back lining right sides together at the centre back. Pin the fold in place at the neckline and at the bottom of the garment.
At 5/8’’ (1.5 cm) from the fold, sew 1 5/8’’ (4 cm) downwards starting from the neckline.
At 5/8’’ (1.5 cm) from the fold, sew 2 3/8’’ (6 cm) upwards starting from the bottom.
Press the pleats towards one side.
Preparing the front lining
Place one front facing and its corresponding front lining right sides together. The bottom of the front facing sits 1 3/16’’ (3 cm) from the bottom of the front lining. Match up the notches. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm).
Press the seam towards the lining. On the lining, topstitch at 3/16’’ (5 mm) from the seam to hold the seam allowances in place.
Place the fronts and the back of the outer garment right sides together and align them at the shoulders. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Press the seams towards the back.
Repeat these steps to sew the shoulders of the lining but press the seams towards the front.
Preparing the yoke
Place the yoke in fabric and the yoke in lining right sides together matching up the notches. Pin in place all around except for the neckline. Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm).
Clip the curves and, if needed, trim the seam allowances. Turn right side out and press making sure the lining is not visible from the right side.
Sewing the yoke to the shoulders
Place the yoke lining and the outer garment right sides together at the neckline.
Match up the notches on the fronts with the ends of the yoke and the shoulder seams with the notches on the neckline of the yoke. Match up the notches at the centre back. Pin in place around the neckline and all around the outside edge of the yoke making sure the lining is not visible from the right side.
At the shoulder seams, the yoke should naturally sit 1’’ (2.5 cm) from the edge. Topstitch all around the yoke at 3/16’’ (5 mm) to hold it in place.
Sewing the side seams
Place the fronts and the back of the outer garment right sides together. Align them at the sides. On each side, pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Press towards the back.
Repeat to sew the side seams of the lining but press them towards the front.
On one of the side seams of the lining leave an 8’’ (20 cm) opening to turn the garment right side out at a later stage.
At the bottom of the outer garment only, fold 1 5/8’’ (4 cm) of the back and the longer parts of the fronts towards the wrong side and press to mark the fold of the hem.
Make sure not to fold and press the shorter parts of the front pieces.
Unfold. Do not sew the hem now.
Preparing the sleeve tabs
Place one sleeve tab in fabric and one in lining right sides together. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm) along the top, the rounded edge and the bottom edge in one go.
Clip the curve and, if needed, trim the seam allowances.
Turn right side out and press making sure the lining is not visible from the right side.
Topstitch 3/16’’ (5 mm) from the edge.
Sew the buttonhole as indicated on the pattern (centred and 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the edge).
Preparing the sleeve cap
Sew a row of long length stitches between the notches of each sleeve cap (outer garment and lining), 5/16’’ (8 mm) from the raw edge.
Pressing the sleeve hems of the garment
At the bottom of the upper sleeve and the under sleeve pieces of the outer garment only, fold 1 5/8’’ (4 cm) on the wrong side and press to mark the fold.
Unfold. Do not sew the hems now.
Pressing the sleeve hems of the lining
At the bottom of the upper sleeve and the under sleeve linings, fold 3/8’’ (1 cm) towards the wrong side and press to mark the fold.
Unfold. Do not sew the hems now.
Place the lining side of one sleeve tab against the right side of one of the upper sleeves. Align the bottom of the sleeve tab with the notch at the bottom of the upper sleeve.
Place the back of the upper sleeve and the back of the corresponding under sleeve right sides together. Match up the notch with the bottom of the sleeve tab.
Pin all layers in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Whilst sewing, backstitch at the top and the bottom of the sleeve tab to reinforce. Press the seam towards the under sleeve.
Place the front of the upper sleeve with the front of the under sleeve right sides together. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm).
Press the seam towards the under sleeve.
Press the sleeve tab towards the upper sleeve and sew the button matching up the buttonhole.
Prepare the sleeve lining following the same steps (note: there are no sleeve tabs for the lining).
Place one garment sleeve and its corresponding armhole right sides together. Match up the notches and pin in place. Match up the shoulder seam with the notch on the sleeve cap and pin in place. Match up the side seam with the notch on the under sleeve and pin in place. Gently pull the easing stitches’ thread tails until the sleeve cap and the armhole are the same size. Spread the ease out evenly between the notches and pin in place all around. Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm) and press.
Repeat the steps to sew the sleeve linings with the garment lining.
Sewing the toggle fastenings
Cut 8 lengths (for version A) or 10 lengths (for version B) of 4 3/4’’ (12 cm) long pieces of drawstring.
Place 4 or 5 (depending on the version) pieces of drawstring through the toggles. You’ll be left with 4 or 5 pieces of drawstring.
On each front, use the pattern to locate the the centre front and the crosses marking the placement of the toggle pads.
Cut 2’’ by 2’’ (5 cm by 5 cm) squares of iron-on interfacing and fuse them on the wrong side of the front where the toggle pad markings are.
Place the toggle pads on the right side of the fronts aligning the tip of the triangle with the cross.
Fold one drawstring in half and slide its ends 3/8’’ (1 cm) underneath each of the pads on the right-hand front. Pin in place or baste.
Repeat the steps for the left-hand front but add one toggle button on each of the strings before pinning. Pin in place or baste.
Make sure the fastenings will meet at the centre front once attached. Adjust if needed.
Sew around each pad as close to the edge as you can. Start at the top of the edge where the drawstring is inserted and once finished, sew over it one more time to reinforce the seam.
Assembling the hoods
Place the hood centre panel and one of the outer hood pieces right sides together and match up the notches. Pin in place along the longer curve and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Clip the curve and press the seam towards the centre panel.
Topstitch at 3/16’’ (5 mm) from the seam to maintain the seam allowance in place. Repeat and sew the other side panel of the hood and follow the same instructions to assemble the hood lining.
Assembling the facing
Place both hood facings right sides together and align them at the top (indicated on the pattern). Pin in place and sew along the top at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Press the seam open.
Assembling the lining with the facing
Place the hood lining and the hood facing right sides together. Align the raw edge of the lining with the inside edge of the facing (indicated on the pattern). Match up the notch on the centre panel with the seam of the hood facing. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Press the seam towards the lining.
On the lining, topstitch at 3/16’’ (5 mm) from the seam to hold the seam allowances in place.
Sewing the hood with the hood lining
Place the hood and the hood lining right sides together and align the outer edges. Match up the notch on the centre panel with the seam of the hood facing. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm) along the outer edge.
Turn right side out and press. Topstitch at 1 5/8’’ (4 cm) from the edge.
Assembling the garment with the lining
On a table place the garment right side up. Place the hood on top so the inside is visible to you. Match up the ends of the hood with the edges of the yoke. Match up the centre back notches as well as the notches on the hood with the shoulder seams. Pin in place and sew at 3/16’’ (5 mm) or baste in place.
Place the lining on top wrong side up. The front facings sit 1 3/16’’ (3 cm) from the bottom. Match up the notches at the necklines and pin in place. Match up the outer garment and the lining at the centre fronts. Pin in place along the centre fronts and the neckline. Sew all along at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Start and finish at the seam attaching the lining to the front facing. Clip the curves at the neckline and trim the corners.
Sewing the bottom of the garment
the raw edges of the outer garment and the lining together and pin in place along the bottom. Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm).
Bagging out
Turn the garment right side out through the opening of the lining. Close the opening by hand using an invisible stitch and give the garment a good press.
Optional: Topstitching the garment
If you can, topstitch 3/16’’ (5 mm) from one centre front, along the neckline and finish on the other front (QQ). Press.
Place the collar tab in fabric and the one in lining right sides together. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm) all around leaving a 2’’ (5 cm) opening to be able to turn the tab right side out. Clip the curves and, if needed, trim the seam allowances.
Clip the curves and, if needed, trim the seam allowances. Turn right side out and press making sure the lining is not visible from the right side.
Press the 3/8’’ (1 cm) seam allowances of the opening inside the tab. By hand, close the opening using an invisible stitch.
Topstitch all around the tab 3/16’’ (5 mm) from the edge.
Sew the buttonholes as indicated on the pattern. They should start 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the edge.
Sew the buttons on the hood following the placement indicated by a cross on the pattern
Hemming the sleeves
Place one sleeve lining inside its corresponding outer garment sleeve. Fold up the bottom of the sleeve and sleeve lining where the hems were previously pressed. Overlap the sleeve lining with the sleeve and align their raw edges. By hand, sew them together using an invisible stitch?.
Securing the hem
To avoid the hem unfolding, at the side seams sew the lining to the garment using an invisible stitch.
If your fabric is a bit heavy and the hem unfolds anyway, slip stitch by hand all along the hem. For this, only sew through the layers of fabric of the outer garment. Do not sew through the lining.
Repeat at the shoulders if needed.
It’s finished!
And there you have it, your beautifully handmade duffle coat is ready to go! We hope this keeps you warm on those chilly days, while looking amazingly stylish, of course.
We would love to see your finished garment, please do share photos on Instagram and tag: @iam_patterns, #iampatterns and #iamre
Many thanks to Emilie from @mggplusplus for making this step by step sew along.
