Hesat is a 4-in-1 pattern that’s as stylish as it is comfortable. With on-trend shirring details that nod to the styles of the 70s, Hesat gives you the choice of a blouse or a baby-doll style dress with different sleeve lengths. Sewing Hesat is a breeze for more experienced sewists, and the loose shape means it’s also perfect for beginners.
In this sew along, for each step of the project you will find written instructions accompanied by multiple images.
I AM HESAT
I AM Hesat is a stylish wardrobe staple that offers you four variations in one pattern. Create a beautiful voluminous blouse or dress with long sleeves cinched at the wrist with shirring for a 70s inspired look. Alternatively, sew up a comfortable yet chic short sleeve blouse. Both options feature a shirred neckline, creating a unique yet easy-to-sew and easy-to-wear look.
Preparing the pieces
Finish the following raw edges: underarms of sleeves, sides of front, sides of back, around the pockets.
Sewing the pockets
Using tailor chalk mark the placement of the pocket illustrated by a notch on the side seams of the front and back pattern pieces.
Place one pocket on the front right sides together. Align the top of the pocket with the marking on the side seam. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm) along the side seam.
(B). Press the pocket towards the outside.
Repeat to sew the other three pockets.
Sewing the sleeves
Place a sleeve and the front bodice right sides together. Match up the notches. The seam allowances of the sleeve extend further than the front. This is due to adding the seam allowances on an acute angle. It might help to draw the seam lines at 3/8’’ (1 cm) and then match them up in order to pin in place accurately. Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm) and cut the excess seam allowance.
Finish the seam and press it towards the bodice.
Repeat to sew this sleeve with the back and for the other sleeve.
Place the front and the back right sides together, pockets out. Pin along the side seam and the sleeve seam, neatly matching up the underarm seams and the pockets.
Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the bottom of the sleeve to the bottom of the garment.
Press the seam towards the front. Repeat to sew the other side seam.
At the bottom of the garment, fold and press 3/8’’ (1 cm) and again 3/8’’ (1 cm) towards the wrong side. Pin in place and topstitch all around to hem.
Finish the raw edge using a rolled hem stitch or narrow zigzag stitch.
Thread the machine with good quality sewing machine thread.
Wind the bobbin by hand with elastic thread. It is important to wind the elastic thread around the bobbin with little to no tension.
Insert the bobbin just like you would for regular thread.
Pull up the bobbin thread manually.
Set your sewing machine on a straight stitch and with a longer stitch length.
Trace parallel lines to use as guides when shirring the fabric at 3/4’’ (2 cm) and then at 1’’ (2.5 cm) from the edge.
Place the fabric under the presser foot, right side up.
Sew all around the neckline or bottom of the sleeves using the straight stitch, following the guide line marked on the fabric and keeping the fabric flat.
Do not back stitch at the beginning nor at the end and keep a 2’’ to 3’’ (5 cm to 7 cm) thread tail on each end to secure the seam afterwards.
Repeat to sew the second row of shirring pulling on the fabric if needed to keep it as flat as possible.
ry on the garment and adjust the gathers if needed. To tighten the volume and create more gathers, pull delicately on the thread tails of the elastic threads. Depending on the fabric this might be a bit tight. If so, tighten it bit by bit, spacing the gathers with the fingers. Take your time and it will be fine.
Once you are happy with the shirring, use a needle to thread the top threads onto the wrong side of the fabric and secure each seam using a double knot. Cut the thread ends of the knots 3/8’’ to 3/4’’ (1 cm to 2 cm) from the knot to avoid them coming undone in the future.
Press or place your iron 1’’ (2.5 cm) from the fabric and use as much steam as possible to get a neater finish.
Your 70s inspired garment is complete! If this was your first time shirring, congratulations! We would love to see your finished blouse or dress, please do share photos on Instagram and tag: @iam_patterns, #iampatterns et #iamhesat
Many thanks to à Emilie de @mggplusplus for this sew along.