Sewing a pair of jeans can seem daunting at first. But if you do it step by step, it becomes an easier project than one might have thought. Follow this sew along tutorial for help with seing the I AM Sunshine jeans.
For each step you will find the written instructions which are then accompanied by multiple pictures.
There are quite a few steps in the instructions for the I AM Sunshine jeans. For it to be easier to follow, we separated each big step in different containers. Once a step is done, click on the next title to see the content of the next step. You can also click on the pictures to enlarge them in a pop up window.
I AM Sunshine
I AM Sunshine is a pair of jeans available in two different cuts: either a tapered leg or slouchy jeans. It has all the details of classic jeans: Italian pockets, coin pocket, back patch pockets, rivets, a fly front, a waistband with belt loops and contrast topstitching.
Sewing the yoke
Place one yoke and its corresponding back right sides together. Match up the notches. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm).
Finish the seam and press the seam downwards.
Double topstitch along on the back piece to maintain the seam allowances in place. Repeat for the other side. All double topstitch, are sewn with a 3/16’’ (5 cm) gap. The first stitch line should be at 1/8’’ (3 mm) and the second one at 5/16’’ (8 mm).
Repeat for the other side.
Sewing the back
Place the back pieces right sides together. Align them along the crotch and match up the yoke seams. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Finish the seam and press the seam towards the left leg.
Double topstitch along the center back to maintain the seam allowance in place. Start at the top of the yoke and finish at the bottom of the crotch.
Sewing the back pockets
Optional: some jeans have embroidered pockets. If you wish to embroider the pockets, do it before sewing them on.
Fold and press the top of one back pocket 3/8’’ (1 cm) and again 3/8’’ (1 cm) towards the wrong side. Pin in place and topstitch at 5/16’’ (8 mm) to maintain the hem in place.
Use the cardboard template to press the remaining seam allowances of the pocket. Place the template on the wrong side of the pocket. Align it at the top and center it widthwise. Press the 3/8’’ (1 cm) seam allowances of the sides and bottom edges towards the template. Clip the corners to ensure a neat finish.
Place the wrong side of the pocket on the right side of one back. Align the top of the pocket with the markings of the pocket placement (indicated as crosses on the pattern). Pin in place and topstitch twice along the sides and the bottom of the pocket. Sew bar tacks at the top of the pocket to reinforce it.
Repeat for the other pocket.
Preparing the front pockets
Hem the top of the coin pocket following the same instructions as for the back pockets: fold and press 3/8” and then 3/8” again towards the wrong side and stitch at 5/16” (8 mm).
Use the cardboard template to fold the seam allowances. Center the template on the pocket and press the seam allowances of the sides towards the template.
Place the wrong side of the coin pocket on the right side of the right-hand pocket facing. Align it at the bottom in between the notches of the pocket facing. Pin in place and double topstitch on each side. Sew bar tacks at the top of the pocket to reinforce it.
Finish the curved edge of the pocket facings. For the right-hand facing, finish the bottom of the coin pocket at the same time.
Place the wrong side of the pocket facing on the right side of the pocket backing. Align the facing with the notches of the backing. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm) following the curved edge. It will hold the facing to the backing and close the bottom of the coin pocket. Repeat for the left pocket backing (without the coin pocket).
Pin both layers in place at the side and sew at 3/16’’ (5 mm).
Sewing the front pockets
Place one pocket lining and its corresponding front leg right sides together. Align them at the side, at the pocket opening and at the waist. Match up the pocket lining with the notches on the front leg. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm).
Clip into the curve to allow the seam to sit flat.
Turn right side out and press.
Double topstitch along the pocket opening.
Place the pocket backing and the pocket lining right sides together. Looking at the wrong side of the garment, pin them in place and sew along the long curve at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Only sew the pockets together. Do not sew the front leg at the same time. Finish the seam and press.
At the waist and at the side, pin all the layers of the pocket with the front leg and sew at 3/16’’ (5 mm) to hold them in place. Repeat for the second pocket.
Sewing the zipper
Finish the raw edge along the crotch of both front legs.
Place the front legs right sides together and align them at the crotch. Pin in place and sew the bottom of the crotch at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Start at the bottom of the crotch and finish exactly at the notch. Press the seam towards the left leg.
Finish the curved raw edge of the fly.
Place the fly on the center front of the left leg, right sides together. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm) along the fly.
Fold the fly towards the wrong side of the leg and press. Topstitch the fly and the leg together along the folded seam.
Open the seam and place the closed zipper face down on the right side of the fly. Align the right-hand tape of the zipper with the center front seam. Make sure the zipper stop sits 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the top edge of the fly. Pin in place and sew along the left-hand tape at 3/16’’ (5 mm) from the edge.
Fold the fly extension in half right sides together. Pin in place and sew the straight short edge (bottom) at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Trim the corner, turn right side out and press. Finish the raw edges of the side.
Fold the center front of the right-hand front leg 3/16’’ (5 mm) towards the wrong side and press to mark the fold.
Place the right-hand zipper tape face down on the wrong side of the right-hand leg. For this, open the zipper and align the tape with the fold so only the teeth are showing on the right side. Make sure the zipper stop sits 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the top edge. Baste along the center front to hold all layers in place.
Place the fly extension on the wrong side of the right-hand leg, against the zip. The fold of the fly extension should sit 1 3/8’’ (3.5 cm) from the fold of the center front. Pin in place and topstitch through all layers 1/8’’ (2 mm) from center front fold. Remove the basting stitches.
Fold the fly extension towards the side seam and pin it in place. This ensures that the fly extension will be out of the way and won’t be sewn with the other layers in the next step.
Use the cardboard template of the fly to trace a line which will be used as a guide for topstitching. For this, place the cardboard template on the right side of the garment: align it with the center front of the left leg and make sure it sits below the bottom stop of the zipper. Using tailor’s chalk, trace along the curved edge of the template to mark the topstitching line.
Topstitch along the line making sure to only sew through the fly and the left front leg. Topstitch another line 3/16’’ (5 mm) away from the first one towards the outside.
Unpin the fly extension, place it correctly and close the zipper.
Double topstitch along the center front of the left front leg through all layers. Start at the bottom of the crotch and finish 3/8’’ (1 cm) above the double topstitch of the fly. Sew bar tacks at the top of the topstitching.
Sew bar tacks to hold all the layers together. For this, on the right side of the garment, in the curve of the first topstitch of the fly, sew a bar tack through all the layers in the curve 1 3/16’’ (3 cm) approximately from the center front.
Sewing the inseam
Place the front and the back right sides together and align their inseams. Match the center front seam with the center back seam and pin in place along the inseam. Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm) along the inseam. Start at the bottom of one leg and finish at the bottom of the other leg.
Finish the seam and press the seam towards the front. Topstitch along the inseam (simple or double depending on what you want).
Sewing the side seams
Place the front and the back right sides together and align them on one side. Pin in place along the side and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Finish the seam and press it towards the back.
On the back, topstitch along the side making sure to sew through all the layers. Start at the waist and finish at the bottom of the pocket. Sew bar tacks at the bottom of the topstitching.
Sewing the belt loops
Finish along one long edge of the belt loop band. Fold and press the non-finished edge 3/8’’ (1 cm) towards the wrong side. Fold and press the finished edge 3/8’’ (1 cm) towards the wrong side overlapping the non-finished edge.
Topstitch through all the layers along each long side.
Using the notches on the pattern cut five belt loops. Each measure 3 3/16’’ (8 cm).
Place the belt loops on the garment right sides together and align them with the waist. Place them as follows and sew each at 3/16’’ (5 mm):
• Two belt loops on the front: 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the edge of each pocket opening
• One belt loop at the center back
• Two belt loops on the back: 2 3/16’’ (5.5 cm) from each side seam
Sewing the waistband
Place the waistbands right sides together. Pin in place at the ends and along the top. Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Start and finish 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the bottom edge to leave the seam allowances free.
Trim the corners and clip into the curves. Turn right side out and press.
Place the waistband and the garment right sides together. Match up the ends of the waistband with the ends of the fly and fly extension respectively. Match up the notches on the waistband to the center back and side seams of the garment. Pin the garment and the layer of the waistband laying against the garment together. Do not pin the other layer of the waistband. It should remain free. Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm) from one end to the other.
Press in order to place the seam allowances inside the waistband.
Press the 3/8’’ (1 cm) seam allowance of the free layer towards the inside of the waistband. Looking at the wrong side of the garment, align this folded edge with the first seam. Pin in place. On the right side of the garment, topstitch along the bottom of the waistband.
Finitshing off
On the left-hand side of the waistband, sew a horizontal buttonhole. Start 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the edge and sew towards the side. On the right-hand side, add the button matching it up the buttonhole.
Fold the top of the belt loops 3/8’’ (1 cm) towards the wrong side and align them edge-to-edge with the top of the waistband. Pin in place and sew bar tacks to secure in place.
At the bottom of each leg, fold and press 3/8’’ (1 cm) and again 3/8’’ (1 cm) towards the wrong side. Pin in place and topstitch all around to hem the garment.
Optional: Add rivets on the side of each pocket opening to reinforce them
Here you go, your I AM Sunshine jeans are finished. Congratulations! Go put it on and share a picture with us on Instagram with: @iam_patterns, #iampatterns et #iamsunshine
Many thanks to à Emilie de @mggplusplus, the queen of jeans, for this sew along which helps tremendously, don’t you think?
