Hacks I AM Julie skirt – Adding lining and pockets by @ateliersvila

When I imagined the pattern with Marie-Emilienne, I already wanted it to have many versions. I created those tutorials so everyone could modify the pattern as they wished.

@ateliersvila
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Knitting, sewing, flower wreath, candle making… Julie from @ateliersvila has a lot of hobbies and she always makes her items with talent and taste. Pedagogue and generous she shares her makes on her blog, her Instagram account or her Youtube channel.

In September 202O she took part in the pattern drafting course with Marie-Emilienne, our designer. In order to share this lovely encounter, they decide to publish I AM Julie, the pattern of the skirt Julie imagined.

When Julie did an Instagram Live to explain how to sew the skirt she promised a tutorial to explain how to modify the pattern to line it and add pockets. It’s now done and you can find the tutorial in French on her blog and on her Youtube channel.

She has kindly agreed for us to translate the content on our blog for you.

The copy below has been translated from her blog where she posted the tutorials.

All those years experimenting with sewing made me realise that sewing was more than a passion and that I really want to devote my life to it.

@ateliersvila

If you have fallen head over heels for the I AM Julie skirt that I have created in collaboration with I AM Patterns and you wish to add pockets, you’ll find all the information to do so below.

The I AM Julie skirt is a versatile pattern and a good base to hack to obtain the skirt of your dream. Today we’re adding lining and pockets.

Happy sewing !

How to add lining to the I AM Julie skirt

The I AM Julie original pattern isn’t lined so it is accessible to beginner sewists. I received a lot of questions on social media asking how to line the skirt so, below, I show you how to add lining to your I AM Julie skirt. 

This technique can be applied to all skirt pattern with a facing if you want too.

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I’ll show you how to trace a construction line (dotted line on the drawing) on your pattern pieces to modify the original pieces and create the ones you will use.

Tracing the construction line on the Front

Lay the Front Facing piece on the Front piece as shown on the illustration. Trace the outline of the Front Facing to get your construction line.

Creating the modified Front Facing

Retrace the new Front Facing piece by adding 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance along this construction line (dark grey shape (a) + dotted line on the illustration).

You now have a modified Front Facing piece which needs to be cut twice in the fabric.

Creating the Front Lining piece

Trace the Front Lining piece using your construction line and adding 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance (light grey shape (b) + dotted line on the illustration).

This new piece is the Front Lining and needs to be cut twice in lining.

Tracing the construction line on the Back

For the back, repeat those steps, which means you need to lay the Back Facing piece over the Back piece to obtain the construction line.

Creating the Back Facing piece

Trace the new Back Facing piece by adding 3/8” (1 cm) at the top of the original piece.

The modified Back Facing piece needs to be cut once on the fold in fabric.

Creating the Back Lining piece

Trace the Back Lining piece by following the construction line on the Back piece and add 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance.

The new Back Lining piece needs to be cut once on the fold in lining.

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Once you have cut all the pieces in fabric and lining for you skirt, start by preparing the pleats of the skirt as indicated on the pattern instructions. Then assemble both front pieces of your skirt with the back at the side seams.

Follow the instructions below to sew your lining.

  • 1. Assemble the facings
    Place the back facing and one front facing right sides together and align them at the side seam. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Finish the raw edges and press the seam towards the front. Repeat those steps to assemble the other front facing with the back facing.
      
  • 2. Prepare the pleats of the lining
    Follow the same instructions as for the outer skirt to create the pleats on the Front Lining and Back Lining. Match up the notches, pin in place and sew at 3/16’’ (5 mm) from the edge to maintain the pleat in place
      
  • 3. Assemble the lining at the side seams
    Place the Back Lining and both Front Lining pieces right sides together and align the side seams. Pin in place and sew at 3/8” (1 cm). Press the seams open. 
      
  • 4. Assemble the facing and the lining
    Place the Facing and the Lining right sides together. Match up the side seams. Pin in place at regular intervals especially in the curve. Sew at 3/8” (1 cm).
    Turn right side out and press the seam towards the Facing.
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  • 5. Assemble the facing with the skirt
    Place the inside of the skirt (assembled Facing and Lining) and the skirt right sides together. Pin and sew all along the outer edge at 3/8” 1 cm. Trim the corners, turn right side out and press.
  • 6. Maintain the outer and inner skirts
    Align the inner skirt with the outer skirt at the waist matching up the side seams. Pin in place and sew at 3/16” to maintain both skirt layers together before adding the waist band.

Now you just have to sew the waistband and add the buttons following the instructions on the booklet.

Thank you for following the step-by-step tutorial. Share your makes of the I AM Julie skirt on social media with the following tags #iamjulie #iampatterns #ateliersvila.

How to add pockets to the I AM Julie skirt

The I AM Julie original pattern doesn’t feature pockets in order to be accessible to beginner sewists. I received a lot of questions on social media asking how to add pockets to the skirt so, below, I show you how to do it. 

This technique can be applied to a variety of skirts, shorts, or even trousers if you wish.

Tracing the construction line on the Front

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To start with you have to decide on the size of the pockets. The measurements indicated on the illustrations are a guide but it is possible to enlarge of reduce them as you see fit.

Tracing the construction lines on the Front

Trace the construction lines on the Front pattern piece in your size.

Note: The opening of the pocket needs to be at least 3/8” (1cm) from the outer marking of the pleat.

Trace the different pattern pieces as follows: 

  • the pocket lining: inside of the pocket (a)
  • the pocket bag: the part of the pocket that will show on the front (a+b)
  • the front: trim the (b) shape on the side

Once you have created those pieces add the 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowances as shown in grey on the illustration.

Cut the different pieces. You’ll need 2 of each piece. The pocket lining can be sewn in lining but the pocket bag will need to be cut in the fabric used for the skirt.

Sewing the pockets

Before you start sewing the pockets you will create the pleats as indicated on the instructions. Use the notches at the waist to fold the pleat as indicated on the pattern. When looking at the right side of the garment, the fold line of the pleat should be directed towards the side seam. Pin in place. Sew at 3/16’’ (5 mm) from the edge to maintain the pleat in place. Press to mark the beginning of the pleat.  Once this is done you can start sewing the pockets.

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  1. Place the pocket lining and skirt right sides together. Align them at the pocket opening. Pin in place and sew at 3/8”. Trim the seam allowance to 3/16” (5 mm)
  2. Open the seam and press the seam allowances towards the lining. Understitch the pocket lining and the seam allowances 1/16” (2 mm) from the first seam to secure everything. Do not stitch the front.
  3. Place the wrong side of the pocket lining on the wrong side of the front and press.
  4. Place the pocket bag and the pocket lining right sides together. Pin in place and sew at 3/8” (1 cm) in order to assemble both pocket pieces together without sewing the front of the skirt. Finnish the seam with an overlock or a zig-zag stitch.
  5. Looking at the right side of the skirt place the pocket and the front together and align them at the side seam. Pin in place and sew the side seam at 3/16” (5 mm) to maintain the pocket and the front together at the side seam. Repeat this operation to maintain the pocket and the front together at the waist.
       

Sew the second pocket following the same instructions.

Once your pockets are sewn follow the steps in the booklet to finish sewing your skirt.

Thank you for following the step-by-step tutorial. Share your makes of the I AM Julie skirt on social media with the following tags #iamjulie #iampatterns #ateliersvila.

Thanks

We’d like to thank Julie once again for taking the time to put this tutorial together and for agreeing to share her tutorials on our blog in English. If you don’t follow her sewing adventures, join her by clicking on the links below. If you want to make the Julie skirt but you don’t have the pattern, discover it now too:

I AM Patterns Sewing Pattern Asymmetrical Wrap Skirt Julie @ateliersvila Short corduroy tie-waist
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Jupe I AM Julie Ateliersvila Blog Couture Tuto Poches et Doublure
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