I AM Sunshine is the ultimate jeans sewing pattern. Whether you choose the tapered leg option or the slouchy balloon shape, this sewing pattern gives you all the classic details a pair of jeans should have; Italian pockets, patch pockets, rivets, belt loops, contrast topstitching and of course, a zipped fly front.
One of the best things about sewing is being able to adapt patterns to suit your style. A simple pattern hack can transform a design to make it fit into your wardrobe such as adding topstitching to the back pockets or shortening the legs to sew shorts instead of trousers. Even though it might seem trickier, changing a zip fly to an exposed button fly is actually fairly easy and we’ve even taken the guesswork out of it with this free add-on to completely change the look of your Sunshine jeans with a button-up fastening. Simply download the add-on piece and follow the steps below.
How to sew a visible buttoned fly
Preparing
The good news is that to sew a visible button fly you don’t have to amend the original pattern. Just cut the pieces as shown. Only the topstitching template changes. Download the template for the button fly and print it out at 100% like you’d do with PDF patterns.
Start sewing your jeans
Start sewing until you have finished step 5. Once you have finished sewing the front pockets, follow the instructions below.
Assemble the front legs
Finish the raw edge along the crotch of both front legs.
Place the front legs right sides together and align them at the crotch. Pin and sew at the bottom of the crotch at 3/8” (1 cm), starting at the bottom of the crotch and finishing exactly at the notch. Press the seam towards the left leg.
Sewing the fly
Finish the curved raw edge of the fly.
Place the fly on the center front of the left leg, right sides together. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm) along the fly.
Fold the fly towards the wrong side of the leg and press. Topstitch the fly and the leg together along the folded seam.
Sewing the fly extension
Fold the fly extension in half right sides together. Pin in place and sew the straight short edge (bottom) at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Trim the corner, turn right side out and press. Finish the raw edges of the side.
Fold the center front of the right-hand front leg 3/16’’ (5 mm) towards the wrong side and press to mark the fold.
Place the right side of the fly extension on the wrong side of the right-hand leg. The fold of the fly extension should sit 1 3/8’’ (3.5 cm) from the fold of the center front. Pin in place and topstitch through all layers 1/8’’ (2 mm) from center front fold.
Maintaining the fly
Fold the fly extension towards the side seam and pin it in place. This ensures that the fly extension will be out of the way and won’t be sewn with the other layers in the next step.
Use the new template that you have downloaded previously to trace a line which will be used as a guide for topstitching. For this, place the cardboard template on the right side of the garment: align it with the center front of the left leg and make sure it sits below the bottom stop of the zipper. Using tailor’s chalk, trace along the curved edge of the template to mark the topstitching line.
Topstitch along the line making sure to only sew through the fly and the left front leg. Topstitch another line 3/16’’ (5 mm) away from the first one towards the outside.
Sewing the buttonholes and adding the buttons
Use the downloaded template to mark the placement of the buttonholes and sew them.
Finishing the fly
Double topstitch along the center front of the left front leg through all layers. Start at the bottom of the crotch and finish 3/8’’ (1 cm) above the double topstitch of the fly. Sew bar tacks at the top of the topstitching.
Sew bar tacks to hold all the layers together.
For this, on the right side of the garment, in the curve of the first topstitch of the fly, sew a bar tack through all the layers in the curve 1 3/16’’ (3 cm) approximately from the center front.
Replace the sub-deck correctly and add the buttons opposite the buttonholes.
Finishing the Sunshine jeans
Continue following the steps in the booklet from step 7 to finish your jeans.
How about sharing your make?
Congratulations, you’ve finished! This little hack completely changes the look of a pair of jeans. Now it’s time for a second pair with the original zip fly…
We’d love to see your photos of your Sunshine jeans, so don’t forget to share by tagging us in your posts.with @iam_patterns and #iamsunshine.
