I AM Sunshine is the ultimate jeans sewing pattern. Whether you choose the tapered leg option or the slouchy balloon shape, this sewing pattern gives you all the classic details a pair of jeans should have; Italian pockets, patch pockets, rivets, a fly front, belt loops and contrast topstitching. With our free download you can also add the perfect finishing touch: decorative topstitched pockets! Read on for our step-by-step tutorial to sew your own…
Adding topstitching to the back pockets will make your jeans completely unique and personal to you and your style. You can use your own designs or choose from the 20 templates we’ve provided. Mix and match, add your own creative flair, go wild with colours, the options are endless!
Don’t yet have your copy of I AM Sunshine? Discover it now. And if you already have it, read on for our step-by-step tutorial to transfer the design and topstitch your back pockets.
The templates
Adding topstitching to the back pockets will make your jeans completely unique and personal to you and your style. You can use your own designs or choose from the 20 templates we’ve provided. Mix and match, add your own creative flair, go wild with colours, the options are endless!
Print the template at 100%. If needed, check your printer’s settings by printing the first page and measuring the square test. The design is based on the finished pocket so you can get an idea of the final result.
Tools
To create your own decorative pockets, you will need: Template with your chosen design Dressmakers carbon paper Blunt tracing wheel Ruler
Trace the design
Before tracing onto your pockets, it’s best to test on scrap fabric first. Make sure to use the same fabric as your actual pockets (rather than an offcut from a different project); this is to make sure the carbon will mark your fabric, and to check it will erase after stitching.
Place the transferable side of the carbon paper on the right side of one pocket. Choose a colour that will be visible on your fabric. We’ve chosen white, but you can also find carbon paper in blue, red and yellow.
Using a pencil, mark the edges or corners of the pocket on the wrong side of your carbon paper. You should be able to feel the edges of the piece through the carbon paper. Centre the template on top with the design visible facing up. The template should be placed as follows: 3/4” (2 cm) from the top, 3/8” (1 cm) from the bottom, 3/8” (1 cm) from each side.
Using the tracing wheel, trace over the design. Put a bit of pressure to ensure the design transfers onto the pocket clearly. Use a ruler for the straight edges and freehand it for the curves. If you want the pockets to be symmetrical, turn the template over to the wrong side and follow the lines you just traced.
The design is now transferred onto your pocket pieces. If you cannot see it clearly, use a tailor’s chalk to trace over. It will help you if the lines are quite visible when topstitching.
Triple straight stitch
This is a special stitch that most sewing machines offer. This stitch locks three times forward, backwards and forward again, making it a visible and strong stitch. This is the stitch we advise using for decorative topstitching. Depending on the look you wish to achieve, you can use a ‘sew-all’ polyester thread or specific topstitching thread. We used normal sew-all thread.
Always test your stitches to find the right setting for your desired look. Test on scrap fabric for a few centimeters or inches, sewing both a straight line and a curve to check you’re happy with how it all looks.
Topstitch the design
Looking at the right side of the fabric, start topstitching the design following one of the lines you traced. Press. If your design requires top stitching different lines, press after each line in order to avoid distorting your pocket.
Your pocket is now customised to your design! Repeat for the other pocket.
…and you’re done!
Tadah! You have added a completely unique detail to your beautiful handmade jeans. The next step is to sew the pockets to the assembled back.
Our booklets have clear step-by-step instructions, but if you’re looking for that extra bit of guidance for sewing your jeans, why not follow along with our tutorial.
