Barbara puts a twist on the classic shirt. With flounce variations and the option to sew a shirt or dress, Barbara brings limitless opportunities your way.
This shirt features a lot of interesting techniques, including a collar, slit and cuffs, so in this sew-along, we show you each technique step-by-step.
If this is your first time sewing a shirt, we will guide you each step of the way to ensure you have a beautiful garment to wear with pride.
For each step, you will find written instructions accompanied by multiple images. There are quite a few steps in the instructions for I AM Barbara. So it is easier to follow, we separated each step in different containers. Once a step is done, click on the next title to see the content of the next step. You can also click on the pictures to enlarge them in a pop up window.
I AM Barbara
I Am Barbara is a classic shirt given a unique spin with flounces set into the sleeve. Classic details include a collar, cuffs with a slit opening, a back yoke and a centre-back pleat. The button-up front is hidden under a placket. A wide cut creates a laid-back, nonchalant style.
Instructions
Preparing the flounces
Staystitching the flounces
Staystitch the flounces to avoid stretching and distorting them. Using a straight stitch, sew 5/16’’ (7mm) from the edges as follows:
– for the long and short flounces (with godets) staystitch along the top and bottom edges.
– for the medium flounces (flat) staystitch along the top edge only.
You will find the illustrations in the booklet.
Preparing the front flounces
Finish the bottom of the front flounces.
Fold the bottom of each flounce 3/8’’ (1 cm) towards the wrong side and press.
Pin in place and sew at 5/16’’ (7 mm) to hem. Press.
Preparing the front flounces
Place both back flounces right sides together and align them at the center back. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Finish the seam and press towards one side. Topstitch 3/16’’ (5 mm) from the center back seam to maintain the seam allowances in place. Press.
Finish the bottom edge of the assembled flounce.
Fold the bottom edge 3/8’’ (1 cm) towards the wrong side and press. Pin in place and sew at 5/16’’ (7 mm) to hem. Press.
Preparing the button plackets
Right front
Place the right side of the right front button placket on the wrong side of the right front. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm).
Using the indications on the pattern and the notches at the top and at the bottom of the button placket piece, fold the fabric as follows to shape the concealed button placket:
– Fold wrong sides together on the Fold 1 line and press.
– Fold right sides together on the Fold 2 line and press.
– Fold wrong sides together on the Fold 3 line and press.
– Fold the seam allowance 3/8’’ (1 cm) towards the wrong side and press.
Do not sew the button placket. It will be done at a later stage.
Left front
Place the right side of the left front button placket on the wrong side of the left front. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Fold the button placket wrong sides together on the Fold 1 line and press. Fold the seam allowance 3/8’’ (1 cm) towards the wrong side and press.
Do not sew the button placket. It will be done at a later stage.
Assembling the back
Center back pleat
Looking at the right side of the back piece, match up each “notch center back pleat” with the center back notch in order to create a box pleat. Pin in place and sew at 5/16” (8 mm) to hold the pleat in place.
Sewing the back yoke
On a table, place one of the back yokes right side facing you. On top, overlay the back right side facing you. Then, overlay the second back yoke wrong side facing you. Match up the notches at the center back. Match up the other two notches on the yokes with the folds of the pleat. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm).
Press in order to have the wrong sides of the yokes facing each other. Stitch along the armhole 5/16’’ (8 mm) from the edge to hold both yokes together.
Sewing the slit
On one length of the placket, fold and press 3/8” (1 cm) towards the wrong side.
At the bottom of one back sleeve cut the slit as shown on the pattern. Place the slit wide open in a straight line.
Pin the non-folded edge of the placket and the slit right sides together.
At the tip of the slit there is only 1/16” (1 mm) of seam allowance. Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm).
Fold the placket on itself wrong sides together in order for it to cover the slit.
Looking at the wrong side of the garment, align the previously folded edge of the placket with the first seam. Pin in place. Looking at the right side of the garment, topstitch along the placket . Press.
Fold the placket right sides together. Sew the top of the placket in a diagonal to secure the opening. Press towards one side.
Preparing the sleeves
Creating the pleats
At the bottom of each back sleeve, fold the fabric matching up the pleat notches in order to create two pleats (the opening of each pleat should be towards the slit). Pin in place.
Sew Pleat 1 (see indication on the pattern) in place at 3/16’’ (5 mm).
On the side of slit with Pleat 2 (see indication on the pattern), fold the placket towards the wrong side of the fabric and pin in place. Sew at 3/16’’ (5 mm) to maintain Pleat 2 and the placket in place.
Sewing a row of easing stitches
On each sleeve cap of the front and back sleeves, sew a row of easing stitches from the notch to the top of the sleeve cap, 5/16’’ (8 mm) from the raw edge.
Sewing the sleeves
Place one front sleeve and its corresponding armhole right sides together. Match up the notches and pin in place. Gently pull the thread tails of the easing stitches until the sleeve cap and the armhole are the same length.
Spread the ease out evenly and pin in place. Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Finish and press the seam.
Repeat the steps to sew the second front sleeve and both back sleeves.
Sewing the flounces
Front flounces
Place the wrong side of a front flounce on the right side of the corresponding front and sleeve. Unfold the button placket and align the flounce on the center front. Match up the neckline. Match up the notch on the flounce with the sleeve seam and the notch on the bottom of the sleeve with the bottom of the flounce. Pin in place and stitch at 3/16’’ (5 mm).
Repeat for the second front.
Back flounces
Place the wrong side of the back flounce on the right side of the assembled back and back sleeves. Match up the necklines (the center back seam of the flounce matches with the center back notch of the back). Match up the notch on the flounce with the sleeve seam as well as the notch on the sleeve with the bottom of the flounce. Pin in place and stitch at 3/16’’ (5 mm).
The dress sewn for the tutorial doesn’t feature back flounces. Refer to the booklet to check the illustrations for this step.
Sewing the shoulders
Place one front on the back right sides together, and align the shoulders and top of the sleeves. Match up the sleeve seams as well as the end of the flounces (for the versions without flounces, match up the notches at the bottom of the sleeve). Pin in place all along and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Finish the seam and press towards the back.
Repeat for the other side.
Sewing the side seams
Place the front and the back right sides together. On one side, pin along the side seam and the bottom of the sleeves, neatly matching up the underarm seams and the notches. Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Finish the seam and press towards the back.
Repeat for the other side.
Sewing the button plackets
Fold the right button placket back on its front. If sewing one of the versions with flounces, make sure to place the flounces in between the front and the button placket. Sew at 1/8’’ (2 mm) to maintain the button placket in place.
Repeat for the left button placket.
Use the indications on the pattern to mark the position of the buttonholes on the right button placket. Sew them following the center axis of the placket. NOTE: Do not sew the buttonholes on the concealing stand but only on the concealed button placket.
Sewing the collar
Preparing the collar
Place both collar pieces right sides together. Pin in place and sew the sides and the straighter edge at 3/8” (1 cm). Trim the corners and clip the curves. Turn right side out and press.
On a table, place the fused collar stand right side facing you. On top, overlay the collar in order to have the fused side facing you. Then, overlay the non-fused collar stand, wrong side facing you. Match up the extremities of the collar with the notches on the collar stand. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Start and stop stitching 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the edge to keep the seam allowances free.
Clip the curves, turn right side out and press.
Sewing the collar
Place the collar on the neckline right sides together. Match up the notches at the center back. Match up the shoulder seams with the notches on the collar stand. Pin the garment and the layer of the collar stand laying against the garment together. Do not pin the other layer of the collar stand. It needs to remain free. Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm).
Press in order to place the seam allowances inside the collar. Press the 3/8’’ (1 cm) seam allowance of the free layer of the collar stand towards the inside of the collar.
Looking at the wrong side of the garment, align this folded edge with the first seam. Pin in place.
On the right side of the garment, topstitch along the collar stand.
Sewing the cuffs
Preparing the cuffs
Fold one cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together. Sew one end at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Start at the fold and stop stitching 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the edge to keep the seam allowances free. On the other end, sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the folded edge to the notch placed on the length of the cuff.
Trim the corners. Turn right side out and press. Repeat for the second cuff.
Sewing the cuffs
Place one cuff around the bottom of a sleeve right sides together. Match the edge of the slit with each extremity of the cuff. The button placket of the cuff should be placed on the side closer to the top of the sleeve. Pin the sleeve and the layer of the cuff laying against the sleeve together. Do not pin the second layer of the cuff. It should remain free. Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm).
Press in order to place the seam allowances inside the cuff. Press the 3/8’’ (1 cm) seam allowance of the free edge towards the inside of the cuff.
Looking at the wrong side of the garment, align this folded edge with the first seam. Pin in place.
On the right side of the garment, topstitch along the cuff.
Repeat for the second cuff.
Hemming the bottom of the garment
Fold the bottom of the garment 3/8” (1 cm) towards the wrong side and press. Fold again 3/8” (1 cm) towards the wrong side and press. Pin in place and topstitch along the bottom of the garment to hold the hem in place.
Sewing the buttons and buttonholes
On the cuffs
On each cuff, sew one horizontal buttonhole. Center it heightwise and start 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the edge. Sew the buttons matching up the buttonholes.
On the collar stand and the button placket
Sew one horizontal buttonhole on the collar stand. Start on the same axis as the vertical buttonholes on the concealed placket (center front axis) and sew the buttonhole towards the shoulder. Sew on the button by matching it up with the buttonhole.
On the left front, sew on the buttons by matching each one up with a buttonhole on the concealed button placket.
And there you have it, your I Am Barbara is complete! Congratulations! We would love to see your finished garment, please do share photos on Instagram and tag @iampatterns and use #iampatterns #iambarbara
Nous tenons à remercier chaleureusement Barbara @bee_made. Notre collaboration a abouti à une chemise unique et nous espérons qu’elle vous apportera beaucoup de joie.