Follow this step by step visual guide to sew the butterfly sleeved I AM Zèbre sweatshirt. We have put the written explications first and then below we added the picture to illustrate each step. We look forward to seeing your version of the sweatshirt on social media. Tag us @iam_patterns, #iampatterns and #iamzebre
This pattern is made for a garment sewn with a serger. It’s also possible to sew it with a sewing machine, please follow the instructions on the booklet. To stay-stitch and to sew the gathering thread, change the needle on the sewing machine to one specially made for sewing jersey fabrics. Lower the tension and lengthen the stitch to sew the gathering thread.
CUTTING THE FABRIC
Cut the fabric following the layout plan.
Make notches of 1/8″ where marked on the pattern.
Trim the right front shoulder and the right back shoulder 1 3/16″.
PREPARING THE BUTTON PLACKETS
1 Overlock the left shoulders. Fold 1″ at the left shoulder back and iron. Repeat for the left shoulder front.
2 Superimpose the button plackets so the front button placket is on top of the back button placket. Stay-stitch at 1/8″ along the armhole.
SEWING THE RIGHT SHOULDER
3 Place the front and the back right shoulders right sides together. Pin or clip in place and sew. Iron the seams towards the back.
SEWING THE SLEEVES
4 Place the sleeve and the armhole right sides together. Pin or clip in place and sew. Repeat for the other sleeve.
SEWING THE SIDES
5 Place the front and the back right sides together and align the sides. Do the same for the sleeve. Pin or clip in place all along the side and the sleeve making sure to match up the underarm seam and sew. Repeat for the other side.
SEWING AN EASING STITCH
6 Sew a row of basting stitches at the bottom of the butterfly sleeves at 1/8″ from the edge to gather the fabric.
Ribbing is defined as a band that will finish a part of the garment. In general, it’s smaller than the garment to tighten it a little. For this garment, there are three ribbings: two cuffs and a waistband.
PREPARING THE RIBBINGS
7 Place the ribbing right sides together aligning the edges of the height of the piece. Pin or clip in place and sew. Fold the ribbing in half wrong sides together and iron.
SEWING THE RIBBINGS
8 Divide the circle formed by the ribbing in four and mark each quarter with a pin. Mark each quarter of the part of the garment you need to sew with pins as well.
9 Place the ribbing and the garment right sides together. Make sure to align the pins together. As the ribbing is smaller than the garment, it ensures the ease is shared equally.
10 Sew. While sewing, gently extend the ribbing so it becomes the same length as the garment.
SEWING THE CUFFS
11 For the cuffs, pull gently on the gathering thread until the length of the bottom of the sleeves matches the length of the ribbings. Spread the gathers evenly before sewing it to the ribbing.
PREPARING THE RIBBING AT THE NECKLINE
12 Fold the ribbing in half lengthways right sides together and iron. Sew each extremity.
13 Turn inside out and iron.
SEWING THE RIBBING AT THE NECKLINE
14 Divide the ribbing in two and mark it with a pin. Do the same for the neckline of the garment starting at the button plackets.
15 Place the ribbing and the garment right sides together. Make sure to align the pins together and spread the ease evenly. Pin or clip it all in place. Pin the edge of the ribbing on the fold of the button plackets. Fold the button placket over so it tucks in the edge of the ribbing. Sew the ribbing.
16 Turn the button plackets inside out, push the corners out neatly.
ADDING THE SNAP FASTENERS
17 Add three snap fasteners: one on the ribbing and the other two equally spaced on the button plackets.