Sirius – Step-by-step

Follow our step by step guide to sewing I AM Sirius, your sweatshirt with a pleated back from the collection I AM A STAR. You will find the written explication first and then below we have added the picture to illustrate the step.

If you don’t have the pattern of the I AM Sirius yet, you can discover it here.

CUTTING THE FABRIC:

-1- Cut the fabric following the cutting plan.

-2- Make notches as shown on the pattern and also on fabric folds: center front on the collar and the front.

PREPARING THE BUTTONING PLACKET:

-3- Cut the excess of fabric on the left buttoning placket as shown on the pattern.

-4- Overlock the center back from the bottom to the corner of the buttoning.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 1
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I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 1
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-5- Iron the back buttoning placket as follows. On the left side, fold 3/8″ then 3/4″ toward the wrong side. Iron. On the right side, fold 3/8’’ towards the wrong side. Iron.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 5
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PREPARING THE PLEATS:

Make the pleats on the “pleated back” piece like an accordion.

-6- Start the first pleat at 1 3/16″ from the edge and pleat in accordion every 3/4″.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 6
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I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step2 zoom
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-7- The last pleat should lie on the first one. It measures 1 3/16″.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 7
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-8- Overlock the sides and the top of the piece.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 8
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-9- Make a rolled edge hem at the bottom of the piece.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 9
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SEWING THE PLEATS AND THE BACK:

-10- Place the pleated piece and the left back right sides together.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 10
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-11- The pleated piece is 3/4″ up on the buttoning part, and stops at 2 inches above the bottom of the garment.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 10
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I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 11
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-12- Sew at 3/8’’. Make sure to start sewing at 3/8″ from the top of the pleats and finish exactly on the rolled edge.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 12
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I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 12
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-13- Iron towards the center back. Open the pleats and place the right back right sides together with the pleated piece.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 13
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I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 13
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-14- Pin and sew the same way that the left back: the pleated piece is 3/4’ up on the buttoning part, and stops at 2 inches above the bottom of the garment. Sew at 3/8″.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 14
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-15- Iron towards the center back.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 15
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ASSEMBLING THE CENTER BACK:

-16- Fold the pleats and the buttoning, and place the center backs right sides together.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 16
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I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 16
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I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 16
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-17- Sew the top of the pleats and the buttoning together at 3/8″. Stop at the first stitch.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 17
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-18- On the right side, fold the left back so it’s above the pleats. Iron the left back buttoning.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 18
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I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 18
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-19- Topstitch for 3/4″ at 3/4″ above the pleats. This will maintain the buttoning plackets in place and hide the pleats.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 19
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SEWING THE BUST DART:

-20- Create the dart by folding the front, right side facing the right side, and match up the dart’s notches. Pin and trace one side of the dart.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 20
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-21- Sew from the side seam to the tip of the dart. Start with a backstitch and at the tip of the dart make sure to have 2″ of thread hanging so you can secure the dart by hand with a tight double knot.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 21
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-22- Iron the dart downwards.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 22
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-23- Sew the second dart following the same instructions.

SEWING THE SHOULDERS:

-24- Place front and back of the bodice right sides together at the shoulders. Sew at 3/8″. Overlock and iron the seam towards the back.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 24
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PREPARING THE COLLAR:

-25- Place the collar and the collar lining right sides together. Sew the sides and the top at 3/8″. Make sure to start and stop at 3/8″ from the edge.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 25
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-26- Turn the collar right side out and iron. Make sure the collar corners are turned out completely.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 26
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SEWING THE COLLAR:

-27- Place the collar and the neckline right sides together matching up the notches.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 27
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I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 27
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-28- Sew at 3/8″.

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-29- Fold 3/8″ of the lining inside the collar. Sew the lining to the collar with an invisible hand stitch.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 29
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I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 29
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I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 29
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SEWING THE SLEEVES:

-30- Overlock the bottom of the sleeves.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 30
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-31- Sew the sleeve darts following the same instructions than for the bust darts.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 31
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-32- Sew an easing stitch on the sleeve head, between the two notches.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 32
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I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 32
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-33- Place the sleeve underarm and the garment’s armhole right sides together matching up the notches. Pin in place.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 33
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-34- To create the gathers, gently pull the gather thread and spread the ease evenly. Pin in place.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 34
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-35- Sew at 3/8’’ and overlock.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 35
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SEWING THE SIDES:

-36- Place the front and back right sides together, matching up the underarm seams. Pin in place. Sew at 3/8″ and overlock.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 36
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FINISHING:

-37- Fold the sleeve bottom at 3/4″ on the wrong side. Topstitch along the overlock.

-38- Fold the bottom of the garment 3/8″ and 1 9/16″ and iron. Topstitch the hem.

I AM Patterns - Sewing Pattern Sirius jumper tutorial - step 38
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-39- On the buttoning placket, sew the invisible stud buttons.

Congratulations, you’ve finished your creation. Post it on social media with: @iam_patterns

#iampatterns

#iamsirius

I AM Patterns pas a pas patron couture pull dos plissé Sirius
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