Follow our step by step guide to sewing I AM Sirius, your sweatshirt with a pleated back from the collection I AM A STAR. You will find the written explication first and then below we have added the picture to illustrate the step.
CUTTING THE FABRIC:
-1- Cut the fabric following the cutting plan.
-2- Make notches as shown on the pattern and also on fabric folds: center front on the collar and the front.
PREPARING THE BUTTONING PLACKET:
-3- Cut the excess of fabric on the left buttoning placket as shown on the pattern.
-4- Overlock the center back from the bottom to the corner of the buttoning.
-5- Iron the back buttoning placket as follows. On the left side, fold 3/8″ then 3/4″ toward the wrong side. Iron. On the right side, fold 3/8’’ towards the wrong side. Iron.
PREPARING THE PLEATS:
Make the pleats on the “pleated back” piece like an accordion.
-6- Start the first pleat at 1 3/16″ from the edge and pleat in accordion every 3/4″.
-7- The last pleat should lie on the first one. It measures 1 3/16″.
-8- Overlock the sides and the top of the piece.
-9- Make a rolled edge hem at the bottom of the piece.
SEWING THE PLEATS AND THE BACK:
-10- Place the pleated piece and the left back right sides together.
-11- The pleated piece is 3/4″ up on the buttoning part, and stops at 2 inches above the bottom of the garment.
-12- Sew at 3/8’’. Make sure to start sewing at 3/8″ from the top of the pleats and finish exactly on the rolled edge.
-13- Iron towards the center back. Open the pleats and place the right back right sides together with the pleated piece.
-14- Pin and sew the same way that the left back: the pleated piece is 3/4’ up on the buttoning part, and stops at 2 inches above the bottom of the garment. Sew at 3/8″.
-15- Iron towards the center back.
ASSEMBLING THE CENTER BACK:
-16- Fold the pleats and the buttoning, and place the center backs right sides together.
-17- Sew the top of the pleats and the buttoning together at 3/8″. Stop at the first stitch.
-18- On the right side, fold the left back so it’s above the pleats. Iron the left back buttoning.
-19- Topstitch for 3/4″ at 3/4″ above the pleats. This will maintain the buttoning plackets in place and hide the pleats.
SEWING THE BUST DART:
-20- Create the dart by folding the front, right side facing the right side, and match up the dart’s notches. Pin and trace one side of the dart.
-21- Sew from the side seam to the tip of the dart. Start with a backstitch and at the tip of the dart make sure to have 2″ of thread hanging so you can secure the dart by hand with a tight double knot.
-22- Iron the dart downwards.
-23- Sew the second dart following the same instructions.
SEWING THE SHOULDERS:
-24- Place front and back of the bodice right sides together at the shoulders. Sew at 3/8″. Overlock and iron the seam towards the back.
PREPARING THE COLLAR:
-25- Place the collar and the collar lining right sides together. Sew the sides and the top at 3/8″. Make sure to start and stop at 3/8″ from the edge.
-26- Turn the collar right side out and iron. Make sure the collar corners are turned out completely.
SEWING THE COLLAR:
-27- Place the collar and the neckline right sides together matching up the notches.
-28- Sew at 3/8″.
-29- Fold 3/8″ of the lining inside the collar. Sew the lining to the collar with an invisible hand stitch.
SEWING THE SLEEVES:
-30- Overlock the bottom of the sleeves.
-31- Sew the sleeve darts following the same instructions than for the bust darts.
-32- Sew an easing stitch on the sleeve head, between the two notches.
-33- Place the sleeve underarm and the garment’s armhole right sides together matching up the notches. Pin in place.
-34- To create the gathers, gently pull the gather thread and spread the ease evenly. Pin in place.
-35- Sew at 3/8’’ and overlock.
SEWING THE SIDES:
-36- Place the front and back right sides together, matching up the underarm seams. Pin in place. Sew at 3/8″ and overlock.
-37- Fold the sleeve bottom at 3/4″ on the wrong side. Topstitch along the overlock.
-38- Fold the bottom of the garment 3/8″ and 1 9/16″ and iron. Topstitch the hem.
-39- On the buttoning placket, sew the invisible stud buttons.
Congratulations, you’ve finished your creation. Post it on social media with: @iam_patterns