I AM Hathor Sew Along – How to sew a sleeveless vest

Hathor est un patron de couture qui offre beaucoup d’options et qui vous permet de coudre un vêtement adapté à non seulement à votre style mais aussi à votre style de vie. Choisissez entre différentes poches, fermetures et styles de col. En tout choisissez entre 18 versions pour trouver celle qui complètera votre garde-robe. Hathor peut être juste un projet de couture simple ou alors vous donner l’opportunité d’essayer des techniques de couture plus complexes pour étoffer votre savoir-faire.

Each part of the process is fully explained and illustrated with images to guide you each step of the way.

I AM Hathor

An 18-in-1 pattern, I AM Hathor is an on-trend sleeveless vest and gilet to pair with any and every outfit you choose. Sew a practical yet stylish wardrobe staple with your choice of press studs or zip, with a rounded neckline, stand-up collar or hood. Finish off your gilet with welt pockets, patch pockets, or without pockets to create a garment to suit both your style and your lifestyle. Hathor is the wardrobe staple you never knew you needed.

Instructions

Sewing the welt pockets

On the right and wrong side of the fronts, use a tailor’s chalk to trace the rectangle marking the finished pocket placement. As we are tracing on the right side, test to ensure the chalk can be erased easily or else use basting thread.

On the wrong side, apply the welt pocket reinforcement interfacing around the finished pocket placement.

Apply iron-on interfacing to the wrong side of each welt piece.

Sewing the pockets

Fold one welt wrong sides together lengthwise and press.

Place the welt on the front, right sides together. Align the raw edges of the welt with the line of the pocket placement closer to the centre front and pin in place. Overlay the pocket facing on top of the welt, wrong side facing up. Pin in place.

Place the pocket backing wrong side facing up on the opposite line of the pocket placement (closer to the side). Pin in place.

Sew each seam at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Make sure to start and stop 3/8’’ (1 cm) before the edge of the fabric.

Cutting the pocket slit

Cut following the pocket placement line starting and stopping 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the beginning of the seam.

Then, cut carefully at an angle until reaching the seam. Make sure to lift the seam allowances of the welt and pocket pieces so as not to cut them.

Push the pocket backing and facing through the opening to the wrong side. All the seam allowances should also be on the wrong side. Press.

Pin in place the pocket facing, the pocket backing and all layers of the welt together and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Make sure to sew exactly on the end points of the opening (triangles) to avoid having holes on the front. Press.

Preparing the collar

Place both collars right sides together. Pin in place at the ends and along the top. Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Trim the corners and clip into the curve. Turn right side out and press.

Sewing the shoulders

Place one front of the outer garment on the back right sides together. Align them at the shoulder. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Press the seam towards the back.

Repeat these steps to sew the shoulders of the lining but press the seams towards the front.

Sewing the lining to garment

Sewing the collar

Place the outer collar and the garment right sides together. Place each end of the collar 3/8’’ (1 cm) from the front edges. Match up the notches on the collar with the neckline. Pin in place and sew at 5/16’’ (8 mm) to hold the collar in place. Do not press.

Sewing the lining

Now, place the lining wrong side up on top of the garment and collar.

Align the fronts and match up the necklines of the collar, the garment and the lining. Pin in place and sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm) in one go as follows: start at the middle of one front, carry on sewing along the centre front, the neckline, the second centre front and finish at the middle of that second front.

Clip the curves and trim the seam allowances if needed.

Sewing the amrscye

With the front lining and the front still right sides together, align the armholes and pin them in place. Sew each armhole at 3/8’’ (1 cm). Clip the curves.

Turn the garment right side out and press all the seams.

Sewing the side seams

Lift the garment on one side to reveal its inside.

At this stage, the armhole seam holds the garment and the lining together at the top of the sides.

Place the back and the front of the outer garment right sides together and align their side edge. Pin in place along the side.

Place the back and the front of the lining right sides together too and align their side edge. Pin in place along the side of the lining.

Sew at 3/8’’ (1 cm) in one go as follows: start at the bottom of the garment, sew along the side seam of the garment, go over the armhole seam and carry on sewing along the side seam of the lining until the end.

Press the seam and turn right side out.

Finishing

Closing the opening

Press the bottom of the garment and the lining 3/8’’ (1 cm) toward the wrong side.

Align the folds and hand-stitch them together using an invisible stitch to close the bottom opening.

Using the pattern, locate the centre front axis of each front. Following the centre front axis, place a snap fastener 3/4’’ (2 cm) from the neckline. Place another snap fastener 2’’ (5 cm) from the bottom. Space the other snap fasteners equally in between those two. Then place the last snap fastener on the collar centring it heightwise.

It’s finished!

Votre gilet Hathor est cousu et prêt à vous suivre dans vos aventures ! Hathor peut être stylé de façons tellement différentes que nous avons hâte de voir comment vous choisirez de porter la vôtre. Partagez-le avec nous sur Instagram avec: @iam_patterns#iampatterns et #iamhathor

Many thanks to Emilie from @mggplusplus for making this step by step sew along.

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