Follow our step by step guide to help you sew the I AM Victoria skirt, and the 3 different pockets designed for the skirt. You will find the written explication first and then below we have added the picture to illustrate the step.
CUTTING THE FABRIC
Cut the fabric following the cutting plan.
Cut the fusing for the waistband.
Make notches as shown on the pattern and on the center fronts of the skirt and the waistband.
PREPARING THE BACK
-1- Overlock the center backs individually.
-2- Place both center backs right sides together. Pin in place. Using a pin, mark the end of the seam 8 1/2’’ from the top of the skirt. Sew at 3/8’’. Start at the bottom of the skirt and finish at the pin.
-3- Press the seam open all the way.
SEWING THE ZIPPER
-4- Pin the right side of the zipper with the wrong side of the skirt so that the seam allowance covers the zipper.
-6- On the right side of the garment, sew all around as shown below.
SEWING THE SIDES
-7- Place the front and the back right sides together and align the sides. Pin in place and sew at 3/8″. Overlock.
PREPARING THE GATHERS
-8- Sew a gathering thread along the top of the skirt at 5/16″ from the edge. Set your machine with a longer stitch and lower the tension. Start after and stop before the zipper. Do not backstitch and leave around 4″ of thread at both ends.
PREPARING THE WAISTBAND
-9- Fuse the waistband. Fold it in half, lengthways, right sides together. Sew the corners of the waistband at 3/8″. Stop sewing precisely at 3/4″ on the length of the waistband to create the cross over button plackets.
GATHERING THE FABRIC
-10- Place the skirt and the waistband right sides together. Match the notches and pin at the center front.
-11- Align each edge of the center back with the end of each button placket and pin in place.
-12- Delicately pull the gathering thread to start getting the gathers. Keep pulling the thread until the skirt measures the same length as the waistband.
-13- Match up the notches with the side seams. Spread the gathers evenly.
SEWING THE POCKETS
Note: Jump to step 14 for the version without pockets. If you don’t have the free extension for the 3 different types of pockets, you can download it now).
A/ Trace the outline of the finished pocket with a tailor’s chalk on the right side of the fabric 2″ from the side.
Fold the fabric towards the right side following the line and iron to mark the edge of the pocket. Fold and iron the 3/8″ seam allowance towards the right side of the fabric. Place the fold of the seam allowance on top of the first fold and iron to mark the gusset.
Repeat for the other pocket.
B/ Fold the fabric right sides together at the angle, align the angles. Pin in place and sew at 3/8″ following the edges of the angles.
C/ Clip the seam allowance of the angle closest to the fold until the seam. Do not clip the seam.
D/ Trim the seam allowance closest to the edge.
E/ Turn right side out and iron.
Repeat for the other angle and for the other pocket.
F/ Topstitch along the outside fold of the pocket (the one visible on the right side).
Repeat for the other pocket.
G/ Referring back to the pattern, trace the line of the finished pocket. Trace a line 3/8″ on the outside of the first line.
H/ Cut along the outside line.
Repeat for the other pocket.
I/ Overlock the lengths and the bottom of the pocket facing.
J/ Place facing and the edge of the pocket right sides together. Pin in place and sew at 3/8″.
K/ Turn right side out and iron. Maintain the facing inside by topstitching along the edge of the opening of the pocket. Repeat for the other pocket.
L/ At slightly less than 3/8″ of the top of the pocket, sew a row of easing stitches.
M/ Delicately pull the gathering thread to start getting the gathers. Stop gathering when the top of the pocket measures 4 3/8″. repeat for the other pocket.
N/ Mark the waist of the skirt 1 3/8″ from the center front of the already gathered skirt.
O/ Place the top of the pocket on the mark and align the top of the pocket with the top of the skirt. Pin in place.
P/ Pin the rest of the pocket in place. Make sure that the skirt and the pocket are completely flat.
Q/ Topstitch along the edges of the pocket. Repeat for the other pocket.
R/ Reinforce the opening of the pocket with a topstitch.
A/ Cut the pocket 2 twice. Cut the top pocket 2 twice.
B/ Overlock the bottom of the pocket top. Place the pocket top and the pocket right sides together. Pin in place and sew at 3/8″.
C/ Turn the top of the pocket inside out and iron. Fold the 3/8″ seam allowances of the rest of the pocket and iron.
D/ Place the pocket 1 3/16″ from the side and 2 3/4″ from the top of the skirt.
E/ Maintain the pocket with a double topstitch. Start at the top corner of the edge closest to the center front and finish 2 3/4″ from the top of the other edge.
F/ If you want, sew a decorative button at the tip of the pocket flap.
G/ Repeat steps B to F for the other pocket.
A/ If using one fabric: cut four times the pocket. If using two fabrics: cut twice the pocket in each fabrics.
B/ Place 2 pockets right sides together and pin in place
C/ Sew all around at 3/8” but leave a 2″ opening.
D/ Clip the curves, turn inside out and iron. Close the opening by hand with an invisible stitch
E/ Place the pocket 3/4″ from the side and 2 3/16″ from the top of the skirt.
F/ Sew the pocket with a topstitch from one corner to the other as indicated on the pattern.
G/ Iron to mark the fold of the flap.
H/ Repeat steps B to G for the other pocket.
SEWING THE WAISTBAND
-14- Pin the gathers and one layer of the waistband in place. The other layer of the waistband remains free.
Sew from one extremity to the other at 3/8″.
-15- Iron in order to place the seam allowance inside the waistband.
-16- Iron the 3/8″ seam allowance of the free edge towards the inside of the waistband. Looking at the wrong side of the garment, align this folded edge with the first seam and pin in place.
-17- On the right side of the garment, topstitch at 2 mm along the waistband.
SEWING THE HEM
-18- Fold and iron 3/8″ and then 1 1/4 on the wrong side. Pin in place.
-19- Topstitch all around the hem.
SEWING THE BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLE
-20- On one of the button plackets, sew one horizontal buttonhole. Start on the axis of the center back and sew towards the side.
-21- On the other button placket, sew the button matching the buttonhole on the axis of the center back.
These 2 Victoria skirts have been sewn in fabrics from Un Chat Sur Un Fil.